No water from your well is a stressful situation — but most failures trace back to a handful of fixable causes. This troubleshooting guide walks you through the most common problems, from a tripped breaker to a failed pressure switch, so you can pinpoint the issue and decide whether to fix it yourself or call a pro. Expect 15 to 30 minutes for the full check.
Safety Warning: Always turn power OFF at the main breaker before inspecting any electrical components. Do not reset the breaker more than once — repeated resets can destroy your pump motor.
You will need a flashlight, paper towels, a tire gauge, and an air pump. If you need help now, Keystone Well Pumps & Plumbing provides 24/7 emergency dispatch throughout Bucks, Montgomery, Chester, Delaware, Lehigh, and Berks counties.
Step 1: Verify System Pressure and Scope
Stop running faucets before you do anything else. Drawing water when the system is dry can overheat and destroy the pump. Close all taps immediately.
Run these checks to get your bearings:
- Check 2-3 fixtures in different areas. Test both hot and cold. If only one faucet is dry, you have a localized plumbing issue, not a well problem.
- Read the pressure gauge near your tank and record the PSI. Zero PSI means total system failure (likely electrical or a dead pump). Low PSI suggests a partial blockage or failing motor.
- Check shutoffs and inline sediment filters. A heavily clogged filter can stop all water flow without any pump problem.
If Pennsylvania temperatures are below freezing, assume a frozen line first. Do not force water flow. Goal: confirm the exact PSI reading and which fixtures are affected before moving to the next step.
Step 2: Check the Breaker and Power Supply
Only attempt a breaker reset once. Resetting a tripped breaker repeatedly can burn out the pump motor or damage your home’s wiring.
- Locate the double-pole breaker labeled “Well Pump” in your main electrical panel.
- If it is tripped, flip it completely OFF, then back to ON.
- Check well houses or outbuildings for a local disconnect switch or a GFCI outlet. Moisture often trips these first.
If the breaker trips again immediately, stop. This means a serious electrical short or a seized motor. Leave the power off and call a technician for a diagnostic check. If the breaker holds but pressure is still zero, continue to Step 3.
Call (215) 285-7110 for 24/7 Emergency Service
Step 3: Inspect the Well Pressure Switch
Caution: Live terminals carry lethal voltage. Turn the pump breaker OFF and verify zero power with a non-contact voltage tester before removing the switch cover.
The pressure switch is a small plastic box mounted on a pipe near the tank. Remove the cover by unscrewing the center nut. Look for these failure signs:
- Burn marks: Blackened, soot-covered, or melted plastic around contact points.
- Pests: Ant or spider nests jamming the mechanical arm.
- Corrosion: Heavy rust or pitting on metal contacts.
- Wear: Pitted contacts, especially if you heard chattering or clicking earlier.
Advanced Continuity Test (Optional)
If you are comfortable with a multimeter, test for continuity across the terminals with power OFF and wires removed. No continuity when the switch is engaged confirms internal failure.
Visible damage (burns, corrosion, pests): Stop here. A damaged switch needs professional replacement. No visible damage: Reinstall the cover and move to Step 4.
Note: An image diagram showing pressure switch components and burnt vs. normal contacts would strengthen this section. Flag for web team.
Step 4: Test Your Well Pressure Tank
The pressure tank stabilizes system pressure and prevents the pump from starting every time you open a faucet. A failed internal bladder waterloggs the tank, forcing the pump to short-cycle (rapidly switch on and off) until the motor burns out.
Non-invasive checks:
- Watch the gauge: Open a faucet. If pressure drops to the cut-in point immediately, the tank has no air cushion.
- Listen for rapid clicking from the pressure switch while water runs.
- Tap test: Knock on the top third of the tank. A hollow sound is normal. A dull thud means it is waterlogged.
Checking Pre-Charge Pressure
Skip this if you are not comfortable working around pressurized systems.
- Turn the power OFF at the breaker.
- Drain the system until the pressure gauge reads 0 PSI. Never check air pressure while the tank holds water — you will get a false reading.
- Use a tire gauge on the Schrader valve at the top of the tank.
- Set air pressure to 2 PSI below the cut-in setting (for example, 28 PSI for a 30/50 switch).
If water leaks from the air valve, the bladder is ruptured. Schedule a tank replacement before the pump burns out.
Step 5: Identify Pump Failure by Sound and Pattern
Listen at the pressure tank, control box, well head (if accessible), and where the main line enters your home. Sound patterns tell you a lot:
- Completely silent: Likely a tripped breaker, blown fuse, or failed control box.
- Rapid clicking without the pump starting: Points to a failed pressure switch or wiring issue.
- Low humming with no pressure build: Often a seized motor, mechanical blockage, or the pump running dry.
- Constant running without pressure increase: Likely a major pipe leak, failed check valve, or dry well.
If the pump runs continuously without building pressure, shut off power at the breaker immediately. Running a pump dry destroys the motor in minutes. If you recognize any of these patterns consistently, it is time to call a technician.
Step 6: Dry Well vs. Equipment Failure
Caution: Stop the pump immediately if you suspect low water levels. Running a pump in a dry well causes permanent motor damage within minutes.
- Dry well clues: Sputtering air at faucets, intermittent flow that recovers after hours of rest, or sudden cloudiness and sediment.
- Equipment failure clues: Repeated breaker trips, burnt smell at the pressure switch, or a humming pump that fails to build pressure.
Use this decision framework:
- Breaker trips again after one reset: Stop. Shorted motor or damaged wiring.
- Pump runs but PSI stays at zero: Cut power. Major leak, failed check valve, or broken shaft.
- Sputtering faucets with intermittent flow: Reduce water usage and call for a well recovery test.
Before calling, note the PSI reading, sounds you heard, and breaker behavior. That information helps the technician arrive with the right parts and cuts diagnostic time significantly.
Pro Tips for Well Water Emergencies
Check for VFD Controllers.
Digital constant-pressure systems require specialized diagnostics. Capture any fault codes on the display screen before calling — your technician can identify electronic failures faster and avoid wasted diagnostic labor.
Protect Household Appliances.
Flush toilets manually with a bucket, but keep dishwashers and washing machines off until pressure stabilizes. This prevents air locks and abrasive sediment from damaging internal valves.
Document System Status.
Record the pressure gauge reading and note any clicking or humming. Photos of your tank and switch labels help your technician arrive with the exact components for your system — cutting service time and the chance of a return trip.
Compare Repair vs. Replacement.
Pulling a submersible pump is a significant labor expense. Ask for itemized quotes on both repair and full replacement. A new pump now prevents paying for a second service call if the old unit fails again next season.
